The Inaugural Puerto Vallarta By UTMB Race Report

I’m going to keep this as short and sweet as possible, based on my memory after running for 26 hours straight. I hope you enjoy the read. 

Dias De Los Muertos on the Malécon

First and foremost, I was stoked about this race when annouced on the UTMB World Series calendar December 2021. A new 100-Mile UTMB race in Puerto Vallarta Mexico, through the heart of the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains, the course made its way from the top of the mountain through deep jungles all the way to the Pacific Ocean. I have never been to Mexico so this trip checked all the boxes for a fun destination race and vacation: A net downhill race to the ocean, a point-to-point course, an opportunity to learn about a new culture, get to use my high school Spanish, and try to snag a top 3 spot for the UTMB Finals in 2023 or have a good chance to collect more running stones towards the real deal in Chamonix.

The only thing I didn’t know was if I was going to be able to run this race since I was doing Run Rabbit Run 100 in September, but I also had persuaded my good friends, Sawna and Eamon to join me on the Puerto Vallarta adventure and they made the trip to run the 100km race. 

Fortunately, I did end up running RRR100 and placed 9th Overall in that race. After performing pretty well at RRR, my coach, David Roche and I got back to work for my last race of the year in Mexico. I was able put in another month of solid training. I had a few big workouts including two long runs here and here. 

Once all set on going to Mexico, the funny thing about this race is that there was almost no information about the course, or the race logistics at that time. The rules, I learned were the week of the race and are very different from most endurance races in the US.

- No pacers allowed. Semi-autonomy was the rule. Crews were allowed only in aid stations, and there weren’t many for crew access. I was going without a crew. SOLO Mission!

- 6 PM start.

- The time limit to finish the race was 44.5 hours.

- Only one 30-liter drop bag at 50-mile was allowed.

- Mandatory equipment you were to carry included 2L water reserve, waterproof jacket, arm and leg sleeves (long sleeves and trousers were recommended), bandage, whistle, emergency blanket, cup, plate, spork, phone, headlamp, battery reserve, nutrition, cap, buff.

- If you opted to carry poles, you were to carry it from the start, not put it in the drop bag.

RACE DAY: 

Gear check in. photo credit: Sawna Guadarrama

Friday, 6PM start. Eamon, Sawna, Sawna’s Dad and sister and I drove from Mascota (the mile 55 aid) to San Sebastián Del Oeste to check in and receive my bib. I got my gear checked, filled my one drop bag with all that I needed for my resupply and I caught up with a few other runners that I knew or knew me. At 5:40PM, it was time to enter the starting corral with 109 other crazy runners. Internally, I was calm and poised knowing that this was going to be a solo mission and uncrewed for the next 110 miles. Before we got sent off, a Mexican shaman started with a sacred ritual of cleansing using smoke and sprinkling water on the runners while chanting. Also a local stood while trying to balance on a tightrope above us in front of the start line which was mesmerizing. Then we counted down 10…9..8…3... 2... 1... GO!

START! Photo credit: Sawna

Off on the adventure now, I charged out to the lead with Dave Stevens of Canada, Jhon Moreno of Columbia, Jeff Mogavero, from Montana, and Tony Rodriguez of Mexico. We had completed a loop of the town plaza filled with uneven cobblestone and lots of cheering from the locals before we left town and got to the trail and started our 3500 foot climb up to the first aid station at La Bufa at 7.4km. On the first climb we were marching at a good clip. We’d power hike the steep grades and run the flats. The funny part of this whole climb was being joined by a dog from the town who stayed with us for this whole beginning section. 

We then caught the sunset as we hit the summit which was unreal and looking towards the Pacific Ocean and the journey ahead. I ran through this aid which wasn’t smart but then started our descent to the next aid station 19.9km away at Amulco. 

Sunset up at La Bufa. Photo credit PV by UTMB

This descent to Amulco was really “nice." I was in 5th place at this point and running solo as the top 4 guys took off down the mountain. It was a really rocky and technical jeep road that needed your full attention. No line was straightforward. At this point it was dark, I pull out my headlamp and waist light. Being in the jungle, the canopy trees make you feel very secluded. I thankfully could see the runners ahead with their lights flickering in and out. I wanted to stay close but not burn too many matches early in the race and blow my quads. By the time I arrived at Amulco, the top 3 had passed but 4th was in the aid station. I refilled my bottles quickly and left before Tony Rodriguez.

Next up was a 9.5km section to Sierra Lago aid. In this section, as I was descending the trail, and back in the jungle, I see massive cows with huge horns on them on the route. My light may have disturbed them and as I was passing them and they decided to chase after me. I had a mini heart attack and freaked out that I was being chased by these huge cows. I shouted at them and was darting from side to side of the trail so they couldn’t track me. But they just wouldn’t go away for about a mile, so I had to use more energy to get away from them going up the trail. 

Finally shaking these crazy cows, I then finally caught up to 3rd place, Jeff Mogavero. I knew of Jeff from his previous great races at RRR in 2021 and his run at UTMB in August this year. We chatted about how crazy this course was so far and that we should take it easy these early miles since we had 80+ miles still left in the race. The miles flew by and we’d run together from ~37km to ~96km. It felt like a nice long run with a good friend. I love how this sport brings us together. We would leap frog and pull each other along. I had some stomach issues and pulled off to the side to alleviate myself but would catch back up to Jeff. Having my double light helped us see when the jungles opened back up to overgrown fields or gravel roads back into town where the aid stations would be.

Somewhere after passing the town of Navidad at 65km and back in the jungle, Jeff had to take a bathroom break and I went a bit ahead. Just in the short few minutes of separating, I hear rustling in the bushes. I turn my head and catch sparkling eyes and the figure of a jaguar. I literally scream, “F*@K!”. “Get the hell away”. I ran a bit slower just to be cautious I wasn’t getting stalked and make sure Jeff was coming. He caught back up and I asked if he heard or saw the jaguar. He sadly didn’t but heard my scream. (I know one other person that saw a jaguar and that was Cat Bradley, so thankfully I’m not alone).

After arriving at the halfway point of the race at Mascota at 86km, Jeff and I both needed to reset. His stomach was feeling off and I needed to restock my pack with extra goodies for the next 55 miles. He had crew from his brother and I took some time to change my soaked socks. Jeff would leave the aid before me but I was basically out of the aid maybe 2-3 minutes after him. He was nowhere to be seen as he flew through the cobblestone streets of Mascota back to the entrance of the trail and our next big climb of the race. I then finally catch back up with my strong power hike. The climb was absolutely ridiculous. It was an unmaintained cow and wild animal trail covered with 4-6 inches of pine needles, crunchy leaves and rocks beneath our feet. Every time I’d look up the trail, I’d see sparkling things moving in the pines and notice that they were dime sized spiders. There were so many it was absolutely insane. 

Darkness. Photo credit PV by UTMB

As we made our up this crazy “trail," Jeff was not feeling great. His stomach was off and I told him to try and throw up to reset. I would put some time on him in the climb but after he had thrown up, he caught back up to me and I lost him in the dense trees. I thankfully had the GPX loaded on my COROS and it really came in handy since the flagging in this section was super spread out. I did get turned around a couple times and lost the trail but thankfully would find it again albeit slowly. After finally summiting this climb, we went straight down the other side on super technical trails to the aid station at Tecuani (100km).

Jeff put around 10 minutes on me when I got lost and I wouldn’t see him until the end of the race. At this point, the sun was soon to rise and we’d finally have daylight. I was definitely ahead of schedule and on track for a finish around 24 hour if I could maintain. I refilled my bottles and got out of the aid and back on the jeep road. I had 80km (50 Miles) left! That’s wild to think about especially after what I had just come down. I knew I was in for more crazy jungle “trails” or hellacious game trails that someone had just took a machete to the day prior and put flags through. 

Making my way up steep unmaintained trails
Photo credit PV by UTMB

It was lightly misting and the roosters were starting to crow. I faintly saw Jeff’s light in the distance but I couldn’t muster any strength to run fully. I’d shuffle the flats and hiked the douche grade hills. The next 40km were a death march but I tried to rally. I was counting down to when I’d eventually get caught by the 5th place runner or runners behind me. Nothing eventful happened as I just kept putting one foot in front of the other hoping my body would stop feeling sluggish. I’d put calories in and tried caffeine but nothing perked me up. I just kept plugging along. Get to one aid, leave as quickly as I could. Then I got to Barandillas at 148km. The heat had started to come out and humidity was rising. I knew we had a huge raging river crossing. There was a lady that directed us to use the rope. It was literally like the American River and Ricky Chucky at WS100 just without all the fanfare. The water was refreshing but my feet were super macerated from all the previous wet overgrown shrubbery and stream crossings. The dirt and grains from the river were filling my shoes and my feet getting very trenchy. 

From 148km to 159km trail conditions went from “what the heck are we running on?” to “you can’t be serious, are we actually “running” down this?” It was super laughable. The trails were so heinous. There were signs we pass that say “Caution: Leaves.” Then you’d slide out from underneath your feet and fall 1000’ descent of thorns, pines, leaves and cow poop. Super rutted out with no running flow. If you tried to run, you’d probably roll your ankle or break your face tripping and supermanning into a tree. 

One of many streams, rivers and water crossing on the course. 
Photo credit PV by UTMB

Just as I made it to El Jorullo aid station, I was fried. I had no calories or hadn’t eaten much. I stopped sweating. And I was suffering from heat exhaustion. I sat in the aid trying to cool off with cold water and revive myself with Cola. The Cola would instantly come back up and I’d throw up a few more times with volunteers and random folks looking at me thinking I was done. The doctor at the aid station took my pulse. He said I was fine. He then rubbed ice on me to cool my core temperature down. Thank goodness for him and that I only had 21km left. I was going to march my way to the finish if it was the last thing I’d do. 

At this point, I finally was caught by the first place 100k runner, Yanquao Yun. He came flying by. I then left the aid and put my head down trying to embrace the pain cave I was going to be in for the next 12 miles. My feet were destroyed but I kept moving as best as I could. Then second place 100k guy comes through. It’s not Seth Ruhling, who I thought would be up in the fight. I hoped he was all good. Kept moving down the shitty trail and then I hear my name being called. I look back. It’s Seth! He was cruising. I chatted briefly and let him know about the other guys ahead. Asked him if he’d seen any 100 milers. He said, “No”, which was great. He then was off to go try and catch the top 2 guys. 

Suffering. Photo credit PV by UTMB

Finally after a crazy long 10km to the final aid and a stupid road climb to the aid and having to hop over a cow gated fence, I reach the final aid station at Rancho El Coyote. I walked into the aid moping. I was really surprised to see Seth there. His stomach blew up. I sat next to him and refueled. My stomach still wasn’t having it so I again puke my brains out. Seth also pukes his guts out. Then he says to me, “Let’s fucking get this shit done.” We shuffle out of the aid station together. His feet aren’t as messed up so he takes off and I’m behind him gingerly shuffling with 40+ miles on my legs.

The last 10km were brutal but I could finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. I tried my best to finish with some daylight. The cobblestones were super rough going back into Puerto Vallarta. I kept deep breathing and thinking of my girlfriend, Maria, all my family, my friends, my coach, David. I knew they’d all be proud of me. I ran/shuffled through the back roads riddled with Mexican homes that were partying for Dias De Los Muertos. I finally made it to final stretch, the Malecón! IT WAS PACKED. I had seen the area a few days before and didn’t expect thousands of people to block the path to the finish. It was a disaster on the organization to not block it off. I would say excuse me (Desculpe or Perdón in Spanish) and nobody would move. I basically shoulder checked a few hundred folks as I was dodging in and out of the crowd before I got to the inflatable Hoka arches that were finally blocked off and illuminated the last 200m to the finish line arch. I sprinted in with arms up to celebrate finishing this beast of a race. I would finish 4th overall, 2nd American in 26:11.

Finish Line video by Dasha Yoder

That was one wild and hard adventure. Even though there were some first year logistical errors, I definitely recommend doing the race. Doing hard things is good and overall the race was excellent and a worthy challenge. Only 62/109 (56%) of the runners completed the race.

Thanks for taking the time to read and hope you enjoyed it.

 

Lastly, again thank you to my girlfriend, Maria for believing in me. Thank you to all the family and friends across the country and world that were tracking me online and sending me messages pre/post-race.

Thank you to my coach, David Roche for all the guidance this year and making me stronger and faster. 

Thank you to my sponsors for all the support and love that allow me to do what I love: Topo Athletic, PurePower CBD, ReNew Earth Running, Spring Energy, Hydrapak, Zensah.

Thank you to COROS for being the best watch ever as well! The Vertix 2 only used 26% of the battery and it was on FULL GPS mode, the maps/navigations were all on to notify me and I also had nutrition alerts on as well. I got the complete run tracked and it was marvelous!

 

Thank you as well to my amazing PT, Dr. Caitlin Alexander at BUILD Labs PT for helping get strong and stay healthy for these crazy events!

 

Lastly, THANK YOU to all the Puerto Vallarta By UTMB organizers, the amazing volunteers at all the aid stations, race photographers! You guys ARE THE BEST and so grateful to you all during my 100+ mile journey. The handmade awards were especially amazing and I appreciate the Siete Leguas Tequila as well!

Tequila, handmade medal and 4th place trophy!

FINAL STATS:

Miles Run: 110.92 Miles https://www.strava.com/activities/8039821658/overview

Vert Gain/Loss: 22K gain/26K loss

Spring Eaten/Drank: 35 Varied flavors (Cannaberry, Awesome Sauce, Speednut, Wolfpack and Hydration)

Maurten: 40x Gels 100 and 15x 320 Cal drink mix

Vest: Ultimate Direction Ultra Vest

Shoes: Topo Athletic MTN RACER 2

Buff/Hat: Suffer Better

Watch: COROS VERTIX 2

Compression Sleeves: Zenzah

Socks: Injinji (2 pairs)

Shirt: Topo Singlet race top

Shorts: Ultimate Direction Jason Schlarb shorts

Bottles: Hydrapak SkyFlask 500m, Speedcup, SkyFlask IT 500 ml & Soft Flask 150ml